Qeshm Island travel tip and itinerary based on one of our former clients: I’m Elspeth from Australia, and I love traveling, mostly alone. I prefer visiting places that aren’t on the usual tourist routes, and I enjoy small towns more than big cities, though there are some exceptions. I travel to challenge my views and to see the realities of different people, cultures, and lands.

Last year, I decided to visit Iran for the first time and invited a friend to come along. We spent the first 11 days of our trip exploring West Azerbaijan with the help of a driver guide. For the rest of our 31 days, we stayed in larger cities and often hired guides there, too.

This time, I’m back in Iran alone, but I’m still using the same excellent tour organizer, Azimeh from Iran’s Travel, to help me explore. I’m heading to Qeshm Island and hope to share some travel tips and stories from this unique place.

Before Traveling to Iran: The Fears I Had and the Reality I Found

Before we finally committed to traveling to Iran, our minds were full of worries. How would we handle carrying all our spending money in cash? Would we find Western-style toilets? Is Iran really safe? And as a woman, I had even more questions: What exactly should I wear in Iran? How are women treated? What happens if my hijab slips?

For months, we kept turning to Azimeh from our Iran travel agency. She patiently walked us through every little concern, answered every late-night message, and shared so many helpful tips.

When we finally started our Iran tour, we felt completely safe. We were in awe of the stunning landscapes, the rich history, and the beautiful culture of this ancient land. But most of all, we were enchanted by the warmth and hospitality of the Iranian people. I fell deeply in love with both the land and its people.

I’ve spoken to others who have traveled to Iran, and they agree, there’s something special about this country that stays with you. Iran gets into your heart in a way that other places don’t, and it doesn’t let you go.

So, what was it like deciding to come back, especially when the whole Middle East seems less stable than last year? At first, it was scary—very scary. Not because of Iran, but because it was hard to know what was real and what was just propaganda. But in the end, my desire to return and explore more of this incredible country through another Iran tour itinerary was stronger than my fear.

Is It Safe to Travel to Iran? A Comprehensive Guide for 2025

Arrival in Qeshm Island

Now I’m here, with my first stop being Qeshm, one of the islands in the Straits of Hormuz. I’m aware that this is a place of great geopolitical significance. However, today, as I walked along the waterfront, I spent half an hour with an elderly gentleman, simply watching the crabs scurrying over the rocks. A man in a car stopped to ask why I was here and what I thought of Iran. As various people called out “Salam,” I felt a deep sense of joy to be back.

It rains only about 10 times a year on Qeshm Island. Last night was one of those rare nights. From early evening until dark, I sat at the window of my apartment, looking out across the Straits of Hormuz. I watched as lightning forked through the sky and listened to the thunder rolling all around. In the distance, I could see numerous boats, though they were too far away to make out any details. The symbolism wasn’t lost on me—this is one of the lightning points in the Middle East, and indeed, the world. As I sat in this powerful storm, I prayed that in some way, this magnificent display of nature might help dispel some of the tensions that have built up in this region.

For anyone planning to visit this beautiful Island, my Qeshm travel tip is to take a moment to simply be present and soak in the unique atmosphere of this incredible island.

First Lunch in Qeshm Island

At lunchtime today, I set out to find a restaurant I’d seen on Google Maps. When I finally found it, the place was almost full. It wasn’t until I sat down that I realized it was packed with men, but surprisingly, I didn’t feel uncomfortable. The waiter seemed a bit unsure of what to do with me at first, but after a while, one of the men at another table signaled for him to give me a menu. Since I couldn’t read a word of Farsi, that wasn’t much help, so I just pointed to a fantastic-looking rice dish at a nearby table.

Soon, three of the men who spoke some English started calling out, asking if I wanted meat or chicken. This is the magnificent meal that arrived: spicy rice, tender meat, and delicious chickpeas. The guys from the kitchen even came out to smile at me, and one of them brought a gift of dates with tahini. The entire meal, including a drink, cost me about $AUD 6 or €3.70.

My Qeshm travel tip is to embrace these spontaneous dining experiences. Even if you can’t read the menu or understand the language, you’re likely to end up with something delicious, and the hospitality is sure to make the experience unforgettable.

Tomorrow is a big day as my journey to this mysterious island truly begins.

Qeshm Island itinerary

First Day: Mangrove Forests, Naz Islands, Kharbas Caves

• Mangrove Forests: These trees grow in salt water, with their root systems filtering out the salt so the trees can thrive. The leaves are even collected to feed camels.

• Naz Islands: In the morning, on the way to Hengam Island, we needed a boat to reach these islands. But by the afternoon, the tide had receded enough that we could drive across.

• Kharbas Caves: These caves, now above ground, were originally formed under the ocean. The ground is still quite soft and subject to erosion, much like the rest of Qeshm. You can see the different layers that have formed over millions of years, including a level filled with shells.

On the first day of my Qeshm itinerary, Iran once again amazed, surprised, and delighted me. The landscape here is completely different from anything I’ve seen elsewhere in Iran. The culture has noticeable Arab and Indian influences, especially in the food, which has more curry flavors than I’ve encountered elsewhere. Men wear Arabian clothing, and the warmer climate gives people a darker complexion. As an island, seafood is, of course, the main food staple.

It’s always a joy to have a great tour guide, and my guide for these three days on Qeshm has lived on the island all his life. His passion and knowledge make the experience even more special. It’s been a wonderful day.

I have to admit, Qeshm was one place I was hesitant about visiting. We hear so much about the Straits of Hormuz being the “flashpoint of the Middle East.” Yet, here I am, enjoying the hospitality and beauty of Qeshm, taking boat trips, and feeling safe.

Second Day morning: Salt Goddess, Rainbow Valley, Valley of Statues, and Red Beach, Portuguese Castle

The day started early at 5:30 a.m. as my guide picked me up at 6:30. Shortly after 7:00, we were on the ferry to Hormuz, the island of salt. Upon arrival, we had breakfast—local bread with a spread made from the red sand of the island.

• Salt Goddess: Our first stop was at the Salt Goddess. There was a powerful energy and a sense of the sacred here. Being in the presence of such beauty is always deeply enriching.

• Rainbow Valley, Valley of Statues, and Red Beach: Everywhere I looked, there was color. From the specks of iron glittering in the black rocks and sand to the hills that ranged from white to yellow, red, blue, green, purple, and black.

• Portuguese Castle: Next, we explored the Portuguese Castle. I’ve visited many castles, but this is the first I’ve seen that glows pink in the sun because the bricks are made from the red sand. The castle was strategically important for Portuguese ships trading with India and beyond.

Lunch was shrimp and rice, Hormuz-style, deliciously spiced with Indian influences. Afterward, we relaxed before catching the ferry back to Qeshm.

Third-Day: Salt Cave, Chah Kooh Valley, Star Valley

Today has been another amazing day on my Qeshm trip. The topsoil is full of shells, and the creative majesty all over the island is breathtaking. The blue of both the sky and the water is what dream holidays are made of.

• Salt Cave: The first stop was the salt cave. When I saw the walk down and back up again, I felt a little daunted. Thankfully, the guide at the caves put his motorbike at my service, and I made it down and back, clinging to my hiking poles and remembering younger days. The entrance and the interior of the caves were beautiful, though it was considerably hotter inside and very humid. Large portions of the roof had recently fallen in after the rain.

• Chah Kooh Valley: Here, I made a mistake. I knew I was thirsty but did nothing about it. Despite having a guide who helped me negotiate the difficult terrain, my slow pace due to a mobility problem and the heat led to dehydration. Though I could still appreciate the beauty, I wasn’t feeling well. After drinking lots of water and taking a nap in a traditional seating area at the lunchtime restaurant, I felt better.

• Star Valley: The final stop for the day was Star Valley. I feel I’ve run out of superlatives, so I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

Qeshm to Kerman

Today is the long drive from Qeshm to Kerman, about 9 hours. Azimeh has organized a delightful young Iranian couple to be my drivers. They are warm, kind, and full of traditional Iranian hospitality, with all sorts of food and drink packed into the car. Since they both work long hours, they’re excited to spend time together.

As I traveled away from Bandar Abbas, the landscape turned arid, but the colors in the barren mountains continued—subtle shades of blue, green, purple, and yellow, along with darker shades of white, red, and black. Sometimes, the covering of salt almost looked like snow. We passed camels and goats along the roadside and single-level dwellings in the villages.

In Qeshm, the mosques are predominantly Sunni, often painted in gentle yellows or oranges, not yet adorned with the ornate mosaics of Shia mosques. We passed through date and pistachio-growing territory and enjoyed a picnic under a tree, kindly prepared by Atoosa and Afshin.

Once we climbed the mountains, the scenery and mosques changed. The land flattened out with tussocks of grass, and the hills were in the distance, while the mosques took on the ornate blue of Shia Islam.

It’s been a long but delightful day. My hosts have shown me great kindness. For someone from the coast of Northwest Tasmania, I’m captivated by the vastness of this scenery.

Let’s see what the next days in Kerman Province bring, including visits to Kerman, Bam, Mahan, Rayen, Shahdad Kalout, and continuing on to Yazd.

Qeshm Island Travel Tip and Itinerary

For anyone planning a visit, my Qeshm Island travel tip is to embrace the island’s unique blend of natural beauty, cultural influences, and warm hospitality. Whether it’s exploring the mangrove forests, marveling at the salt caves, or simply enjoying the local cuisine, Qeshm Island has a way of surprising and delighting travelers at every turn. A well-planned Qeshm itinerary is essential to fully experience all that this remarkable island has to offer.